Tixall Wide

Turning in a more northerly direction at Autherley Junction we found ourselves once more on the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal heading towards Great Haywood. This northern stretch is a little over 20 miles with 12 locks and initially it touches the northern suburbs of Wolverhampton. As one might expect, it was heavily populated and not very pretty until we went under the M54 where the canal passed through pleasant farmland once again.

At Gailey Wharf we came across this Toll keeper's watchtower which just goes to show that you can always find a place of interest in the most unexpected places.

The next two days were largely uneventful as the navigation passed through a few populated areas and former heathland until Penkridge. North of Penkridge the canal followed a pleasant valley but the tranquillity was marred by the constant drone of the M6 motorway so it was with relief that we moored at Tixall Wide, just a half mile from the junction with the Trent & Mersey canal at Great Haywood.





Mooring here was plentiful when we arrived in the early afternoon but it is obviously a popular spot and in no time at all boats were moored bow to stern. This didn't spoil our outlook, however, nor did it spoil the tranquillity.

Tixall Wide is a delightful stretch of water that more resembles a lake than a canal and was built as such to appease the gentry of the time who did not want the view from Tixall Hall to be compromised by a canal - the industrial motorway of its time. Sadly, Tixall Hall no longer stands but the remarkable gatehouse, restored in the 1960's stands proudly and is now used as a holiday home. This Elizabethan gatehouse was built in 1580 when the architecture of Greece and Rome had become fashionable in England.

Walking, it appears is an integral part of narrowboating so Ian and I donned our glad rags (and sensible shoes) and set off to meet our friends, Lesley and Chris (on narrowboat Eleventh Heaven) for an evening of good food, fine wine and great company. It was a wonderful evening that, unfortunately, went by very quickly. In no time at all we parted company once again and our boats are now traveling in different directions: Until the next time...

Tixhall Gatehouse is not the only building of historical interest near Stafford. Since our narrow boating odyssey is partly about the historical trail, we felt compelled to visit  the Shugborough Estate.

The history of the magnificent Shugborough Estate started as a modest family seat. The original manor formed part of the estate of the Bishop of Litchfield. But fate stepped in and due to the epic adventure on the high seas by the younger brother (Admiral George Anson) in 1739, which included the capture of a Spanish galleon carrying an enormous amount of gold and treasure, the fortunes of Shugborough naturally rose.

Over the centuries, The fortunes of Shugborough went through decline and rise 'till we see it as it is today. A part of the manor house was inhabited by the Earls of Litchfield right up to 2005 when the 5th Earl, Patrick Litchfield, the world renowned professional photographer met an untimely end. His son, Thomas, the 6th Earl of Litchfield gave over his claim on the estate to the National Trust and the Staffordshire County Council for the pleasure of future generations.

At the Shugborough Estate one can step into the 'upstairs downstairs' world of the fine mansion, explore the servants quarters and the Georgian farm and water mill all set in 900 acres of parkland, woodland, riverside and gardens.

We spent a happy day exploring the estate, starting with the working farm and water mill. This Georgian farm  is a hive of activity and we were delighted to meet these tiny 'sausages-on-legs' just a few hours old...

...and the lambs in the field.

We met the cook in the working kitchen and the scullery maid at the farmhouse. The county museum showcased Staffordshire life across the ages and a day out is not complete without a cream tea in the tearoom at the farm granary. 

All in all it was a day not to be missed. Well worth the walk from the canal and the reasonable admission charge.

The following day we decided to take a break from our very busy exploration and simply enjoyed the wildlife. The mooring at Tixall didn't have a time restriction so we stayed another day. 

Although this area is well known for its  kingfishers, we didn't spot any but we had plenty to see with the Canada geese, ducks and moorhens all bringing their young out to play.

The sun sets on another perfect day